A journey through time
Sunday, April 15, 2001. We fly a Boeing 737 of the blue Air of Bergamo, speed 900 Km / h, altitude 11,300 m, on the left you can see the bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius, then Calabria, the island of Crete and finally Africa: Alexandria, Egypt, El Qattara perhaps a great depression, where the sand suspended in the air allowed me to see little and then we come to Luxor along the Nile in the heart of Egypt. The flight lasted 3 hours and 10 minutes.
Luxor, ancient Thebes
In Luxor descend from the plane and enter into a shuttle bus, just a passenger, accompanied by police, gets on another bus. We discover later that he had repeatedly smoked in the toilet of the plane and the pilot had alerted the local police. E 'was detained for identification and released after the application of an administrative penalty. The new bags here undergo a baptism of fire and battered several spots are the norm.
In Egypt, in the Customs entry shall be declared only cameras, no cameras or cell phones. In the village there are two mobile operators: Click and MobilNil. Phone calls, says the guide, cost about 10.33 Euros (20,000 Italian lire) minimum for three minutes. Too expensive! The only economical and convenient way to communicate (I hope), are SMS and email.
Coins calls plates, sub of the Egyptian pound, they are virtually unused since they have a very low purchasing power. To find someone to bring back to friends in Italy I asked the front desk of the ship gave me those contained in the pen. The porters of the airport of Luxor for little work demand exorbitant tips. The bus transports us to the river port where the ship is moored Lady Sophia.
Luxor (city of castles) now has 150,000 inhabitants, with the name of Thebes was at its maximum development during the New Kingdom: was the capital from 1570 to 1080 BC, with three dynasties. 
The avenue of trees along the river is decorated with acacia trees and strange that I have ever seen have the thorny green stem from the curious bottle-shaped belly. It is probably the Chorisia speciosa, in South America this tree is called Palo borracho (drunk pole). The motorboats are moored in the fourth row. Ask for explanations and told me that in this sudden passing over 350 motorboats, and then the platform does not have enough berths for all.
We have the afternoon off, the guide advises us to visit the Luxor Museum and to change money into local currency. Joseph Samir, a graduate in Economics and Egyptology, an Italian-Egyptian in Cairo who does the driving for only a few year period, is extremely knowledgeable and competent. He studied Egyptology at Cairo University where he had as teacher the famous Egyptologist Zahi Hawass . Bruno, the assistant Francorosso travel, thanks to the remarkable experience, is strong and energetic, well keep at bay our group of 42 people. Bruno to bring out the our group decided to use a truly unique sign: a sign with a drawing of Quagga (Equus quagga), a species of zebra striped part of South Africa, settled in 1883. It makes saving tips and warnings to avoid unpleasant situations. Picking up the tickets at the entrances to all saving code and discomfort. Egypt is the best time of year so crowded that one should book anytime, anywhere and in advance. In themselves they want to visit any site of interest archaeological involve long lines to buy tickets and for more stringent access controls for individuals as for groups.
In Egypt there are 5,000 official guides authorized by the ministry, in addition to being great connoisseurs of art and history, they must know the language. Joseph is admired by other groups, sometimes someone to join us to hear his explanation. There is talk of Egyptian mythology, the methods of time measurement, calendars as well as customs and costumes.
Isabella and I we go on the hotel Mercure Coralia riverfront (Cornish El Nile), which has an efficient exchange. The hotel is dedicated to Ramses II and in the great hall is a reproduction of life-size statues of Ramses with his war chariot, the squires and the lion massacre that going to war against the Hittites. Come back after your return, as we stroll along the riverside moorings of an elderly boatman asked us if we want to make a turn in the characteristic felucca. Erroneously not accept, but we stopped to chat with him over the Arabic speaking only English. It tells us that life is good in Luxor and the cost of living is very expensive. When traveling Montaigne, French philosopher and writer, to learn something from talking to other causes the people with whom he talked to dwell on the subjects they knew best, which is carried each on its own land, putting them at ease. While he talked, two hawks circling high in the sky, the boatman says that I am a male and his mate and have a nest nearby. Mention of fresh dates of which we are both greedy. They are harvested in November, but are dried in the sun for about a month and then are used throughout the year. The fish of the Nile is good, the market at Luxor comes the fish from the Red Sea. The boatmen of the Nile sailing with their parents from an early age. In fact, a tourist who had a discomfort in the temple of Deir el Bahari was ferried from the west bank of Luxor by a boy of about ten years and then accompanied to the hospital.
We visit the nearby Luxor Museum, which contains interesting finds, Isabella, showing an identity card, which gets the student discount.
On lungonilo of Luxor, in addition to the numerous and petulant carters offering the carriage ride through the city, there are also shoe. Many tourists wear sports shoes and then do not do big business, so even agree on humanitarian grounds. But my shoes, like Timberland, once polished not remain the same color but become a bit 'darker. It was predictable that they did not have all the shades of glossy brown. The problems of life are more!
We are on the riverside of Luxor (Corniche El Nile), it is wonderful to see the sun going to regenerate itself behind the mountains on the west side in the same place where he watched Tuthmosis I, Pharaoh of the Eighteenth dynasty of the New Kingdom, it seems a dream!
In 1987 the "Tricolour Arrows" aerobatic team of the Italian Air Force, flew over the Nile during a performance in this section.
After frugal " dinner candle", all in the cabin, where tired and lulled by the gentle current of the Nile we fell asleep, because the next morning we had all be ready for departure at 6:00 am precise. There are concerns that the TV in the room requires painstaking research of receivable channels via satellite.
The Valley of the Kings
Take bus to bring us to the Valley of the Kings Cross the river via a new bridge to the north and we immerse ourselves in the green of the west shore where the ancient Egyptians built the tomb considered the second home for eternity.
During the tour our guide will show various aspects of ancient Egypt. The various essays and historical novels that I devoured on the subject are barely enough to make me understand how many things I do not know. The guide tells us that Egypt meant "House of the God Ptah."
On the west bank run tamarind, eucalyptus trees, date palms, cane sugar fields of barley being harvested and shaduf, rocker manual for lifting water, have remained unchanged since time immemorial.
We enter the desert of stone, Joseph gives us some important caveats:
| - "What protects against the cold also repairs from the heat; |
| - "My bread is stone. The bread that I touch you eat? No. Then admire, but do not touch anything. " |
jackal god Anubis the postponement of the mummification process and protect the tombs from robbers. In the Valley of the Kings were discovered 67 tombs, all of them are unfinished and almost all have been desecrated.
archaeological sites in the flash is almost always forbidden, you pay a fee for photos, is particularly expensive for the cameras.
The excursion includes a visit two tombs of three tours and a free, plus any optional. The guide advises us not to visit the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun of the Eighteenth Dynasty, where objects were found in gold for a total of 350 kg. Because bare and costly furnishings are now all at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. It was discovered in 1922, after five years of research by British archaeologists Carter and Lord Carnarvon. It was the first found intact, the others had already been desecrated. The criminals to split the heavy lids, in a single block of stone, often gigantic sarcophagi, pour boiling oil and then immediately cold water.
The first is the tomb of Ramses IV of the XX dynasty. Then we visit the tomb of Thutmose IV with splendid reliefs false. The tomb of Thutmose III (Dynasty XVIII) was the first rock-cut tomb, deep, little air, no light, painted and carved, the small coffin in the shape of a scroll. He has a beautiful ceiling representing the sky.
The colors were made with stone dust and to keep them alive in time was affixed with beeswax. To illuminate the interior of these tombs to allow artists to decorate them, they used silver foil by way 'of mirror.
In this valleymeet thousands of people of all nationalities and we must rally round the leadership that has always shown first, and explained the details and peculiarities of the sites, then went to the explanations in general. This seems correct, as the general explanations can be found in any guide book.
reached the place early, around 9:30 we have already visited three tombs, and then we head to the Valley of the Queens where there are more than 80 tombs discovered.
Nefertari, the beautiful of the beautiful
Queen Nefertari (the beautiful of the beautiful) beloved wife of Pharaoh Ramses II disappeared at the age of thirty years, the husband as well as dedicate the temple of Hathor at Abu Simbel was built in the Valley of the Queens finest between all the houses for all eternity.
This tomb is tied hand in glove to Italy: it was discovered by the Italian Ernesto Schiaparelli in 1904 and restored by Adriano Luzi of community (AP). The restoration of the murals began in 1986 ended in 1992 and were conducted by an international team of which was part Adriano Luzi, who said in an interview: "Can not describe them. You should see them. " The greek Herodotus of Halicarnassus in the fifth century BC C. Egypt said, "it offers a number of extraordinary things and presents the performance of works that words can not describe: for I will talk about this long."
Joseph explains that the government allow access to the tomb only to a limited number of visitors: a hundred a day. In addition, the ticket is very expensive, 100 Egyptian pounds per person (30.99 €) and the duration of the visit does not exceed 10 minutes. For the above reasons we can not see this beautiful home .
During the explanations Joseph who draws the attention is distracted, "As photographed waste time and part of my explanation, try to enjoy these treasures through the eyes and ears."
In the Valley of the Queens visit the tomb of Kha young prince, son of Thutmose II, died at age 14. The principle, recognized by the tuft of hair side is presented to the god of the dead pharaoh from his father.
The excavations and investigations are still ongoing, the valley is a work in progress for thousands of years.
I try to imagine the hardships they had to overcome and hardships of the early travelers, explorers, archeologists and artists who were two centuries ago in Egypt which the French Champollion, the Paduan Belzoni, Caviglia the Genoese, the English painter David Roberts.
communicate and be understood was definitely more difficult because of the many illiterate, but now a few words of English or French is spoken all.
There were no trains or motor vessels, we moved on the Nile by means of classical feluccas, when there was no wind we rowed. Not available in modern off-road but we had to make do with the camel or donkey. The many hardships and privations were largely offset by the first places to rediscover forgotten and remained intact for thousands of years.
To pay tribute to the Italian archaeologists want to remember that Giovanni Battista Belzoni (1778-1823) August 1, 1817 opened access to the temple of Abu Simbel, Valley of the Kings was discovered the tomb of Pharaoh Seti I, was the first to enter the pyramid of Khafre at Giza and to identify the ruined city of Berenice on the Red Sea.
Going by bus, driving - the avoidance of fraud - informs us that the items for sale by street vendors are false because in Egypt it is forbidden to export items that have more than one hundred years.
unattended by Dr. Fox, a pharmacist who has preferred to devote himself to the craft of alabaster in Luxor. It has a well-stocked stores of objects in alabaster white, green and brown, black basalt and granite unbreakable. All items are original, handmade pieces are not produced by machines or using different mixes more workable, but poor quality. There are also explained the various processing methods and the differences of the crafts than those obtained by industrial processes.
We go then to Deir el Bahari, where there is the mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut, daughter of Thutmose I, built by Senemut. Unfortunately there is no longer the park where the queen had planted the trees of incense carried by the expedition to Punt (Somalia). In 1960 
was allowed a Polish expedition to restore this temple, but it was a mistake, instead of the original stone was used cement.
The guide says ironically: "Did you just breathed in the dust of the Theban necropolis which contains about one third of the archaeological heritage of the ancient Egyptians to visit it would take a good month."
Let's take a quick step in front of the giant Mnemmone and stopped just long enough to take some pictures. The rest is not enough to rearrange the ideas about the wonders you've seen before in the day. The giants were already famous in antiquity since the first travelers Greeks had heard strange sounds coming from the statues. They were caused by the air that passes through some cracks, probably caused by some earthquakes. Passing near the Ramesseum whose visit is not included in our tour.
Karnak
We then move on to the sacred complex of Karnak. What about the Temple of Amun at Karnak, one of the largest and best preserved ancient Egypt?
hypostyle What a beautiful room! The papyrus-shaped columns rising to the sky, now to see their colors must comply with the original tables David Roberts (1796-1864), the painter who has immortalized in his splendid reproductions of two centuries ago. His drawings are valuable documents to know the colors of ancient Egypt today, unfortunately, lost. Inside the temple, the guide showed us the block that fell in the film "Death on the Nile" Winter and Hotel in Luxor, where some scenes were filmed. The film was adapted from the book published in 1937 by Agatha Christie, a famous mystery writer.
One of the obelisks of Karnak is located in Paris today Place de la Concorde. Love is an ancient Egyptian obelisks. The Europeans were fascinated by the sheer perfection of these gigantic blocks of stone. Suffice it to say that in Rome there are thirteen obelisks in large part from Egypt.
What it meant to extract them and transport them, we realized during a visit to Aswan Unfinished Obelisk site.
Unfortunately visits today started at 6:00 am and then around 13:00 at Karnak fatigue was felt, almost all have a drop of attention. I'm really sorry to be so tired in front of ruins so impressive, majestic and worthy of attention and admiration.
the way back we find the city of Luxor invaded by tens of thousands of people, it seems that in the meantime that we have moved away, the revolution broke out. Instead, men, women and children camp out on the benches, gardens and green space in any, even limited, to celebrate Easter Monday . Let's go to lunch a few minutes before 15.00.
upstream
When we embarked, Lady Sophia sail the ship anchors and making his way back south
Only visiting Egypt you can make full account of what it meant in the past and what it represents today the Nile to the Egyptians.
navigate this river rich in history that has created an advanced civilization for thousands of years and is a unique feeling. With imagination go back in time, I seem to be on board a felucca, as 5,000 years ago, pushed by the wind, upstream of the great river. This brings me to the fact that some children plunge happily in the water. In 2700 a. C. There were crocodiles! Now if you do not find it north of the Aswan Dam. Other children interrupt their games to wave their hands cheerfully with the passage of vessels. Just have fun with and I think they have little free time. Small rowing boats with one adult and two children cast their fishing nets. Children follow their parents to learn quickly and to be useful, something that our children may not know anymore. Many European children, although in fact the Play Station and many other toys are not as happy as them.
While the bridge observe the slow flowing waters of the great river that runs through half the African continent to plunge into the Mediterranean Sea, I passed clumps of aquatic plants were uprooted, but that continue to grow.
To the left and straight stretch of fields Bersim (Egyptian clover), corn, banana plantations, oranges, mangoes, lush palm groves, vineyards planted with sugar cane from the geometric shape, the shade is provided by eucalyptus and large acacia of the Nile. The river feeds several large channels that allow you to irrigate more land plots. Whether the reed beds and semi-swamp you hear the song of hoarse reed warbler, while the white gulls fly hugging the Nile waters. I remember that in the ponds and marshes grew in abundance, along with the white variety, the blue lotus (Nymphaea caerulea) which had a sweet fragrance.
Sometimes you meet some of the water pumping station, especially where the banks are higher. You can see the sugar refineries that were built under Ismail Pasha (1830-1895). Sugar cane produces four harvests a year, for its trucks and rail transport are used proper boats. I remember the words of my father in India, "Take a piece of wheat stalk of sugar cane and chewed it to enjoy the sweet taste." Along the banks, the strip of land submerged by floods, where cows graze on tender grass grows a small and brown cloak, the blacks buffalo rather bathe in the water blessed. There are also goats, donkeys and hinnies (a cross between the horse and the donkey). The domestication of the camel is documented for the first time only during the reign of Queen Hatshepsut (1473-1458 BC).
Sometimes the ship is close to a few meters from the shore, allowing us to admire and photograph from near the lush banks.
The dwellings of the ancient Egyptians were built with mud brick, were sometimes destroyed by the floods, but the graves that had to last for eternity were built in solid stone. The houses do not have a suitable roof to protect them from heavy rains, as there is little rainfall.
I could not distinguish the famous Egyptian cotton plantations, perhaps because it is the flowering period. The cultivation of cotton, the most exported agricultural product, was introduced by Muhammad Ali (1769-1849), the father of modern Egypt. The agricultural mechanization seems scarcely widespread, perhaps due to the low labor cost. In these places, it feels like the rhythms of nature: sun, seasons. These people do not like the Europeans, who want everything immediately.
As you climb to the south you can see that the banks are less lush, fertile in the sense that the band width decreases. In some places where the banks are low, the river widens, and in other rocky narrows, the vegetation is affected: the trees and shrubs are less green.
dinner in the restaurant my daughter points out that the ship is Lisa Bonelli, an actress in the soap opera "Vivere" (nee Manuela Moretto). While we do around the buffet I ask if he really is and if she would make me an autograph. We replied: "Yes I am", there is an autograph on a notebook that I have with me and gives us a piece of cake to celebrate his recent wedding. I ask you a little 'joke: "Marriage in fiction or reality?" I answered, but not enthusiastically as you would expect from a young bride: "I got married in real life."
Edfu
After several hours of sailing we arrived at the close of Edfu, according to my calculations, we covered about 120 km. from Luxor, we stop waiting to go. Passing more than two ships at a time; it takes about an hour to overcome them. A passenger ship that has counted 14 vessels are waiting. Then late in the evening we know that the ship will transit to two in the morning.
E 'evening, the ship Lady Sophia swinging lazily at anchor near the closed, pending the turn to cross. A flotilla small rowboats to ships approaching, the occupiers are trying to sell traditional clothes. I wonder, "How did they know that the next night on board the Lady Sophia, and perhaps also in other motor vessels including the sister Lady Cristina, would take place in an evening dress? ". The curious thing is that acceptance, delivery and payment occurred through launch the boats until the sun deck or the other cabins. Predictably, some garments end up in water.
In the heart of the night the ship entered the dock, once flooded rose quickly as raised by a huge force and it took about 45 minutes to cross the lock.
Al " galabya \u200b\u200b party", a traditional Egyptian costume party, presented the heads of various departments of the ship are offered a cocktail and alcoholic drinks. The traditional Egyptian robe called Galabya \u200b\u200bdjellaba while in Morocco.
Once in Edfu disembark, take a cart drawn by horses and we go to the temple dedicated to Horus, well-preserved and partially restored. There are splendid masts within above the columns you can still see traces of the original colors. The ceiling of the temple has smoked since, during the persecutions of Christians who hid the fire lit to keep warm inside. On the walls of the pillars and walls flows the life and history as a film, frame by frame, tells the ancient legend of Osiris and his death.
In return, the driver of our carriage came to seek us when we were boarding the ship at the berth of the ship, we have approved and I returned the camera I had left on the carriage. That careless! I had not even noticed the lack. In the town of Edfu, the dozens of horses with carriages made the extremely dusty streets of the town, because of well paved roads.
The ship goes up the river towards the south to Upper Egypt while sitting on the bridge and the banks to pass before my eyes. The white feluccas fast sailing waters.
Kom Ombo
Kom Ombo is the only shrine to be dedicated to two gods: to Sobek, the crocodile god and Horus the Elder. The explanation is that to build the priests could not find enough deals to the god Sobek, the temple was also dedicated to a god so good and well-liked by all as Horus the Elder.
the restaurant is located on the ship below the waterline. Our cabin, at the same deck of the reception, has a large door where you can see the river at water level. Unfortunately, when the ship is moored the view is covered by other ships. Nothing to do but with the beautiful view from the bridge that you can enjoy the sun. Towards the hottest hours the day on the upper deck of the ship are more than 35 degrees, but the climate is very dry in the afternoon the temperature drops much more rapidly than in Italy. Inside the cabin there is no natural air circulation, so I had to adjust the ventilation and the internal temperature around 25 - 26 degrees and can say that we slept very well.
As we move up the Nile to Kom Ombo is going down a gorgeous sunset, the sun goes to regenerate into the western desert.
I try to photograph a pair of kingfishers, birds, small color white and black, and then glide over the water at a speed of 200 km / h dive for fish. But my photos were not up to the task, perhaps because of the now dimly lit.
The ship Lady Sophia
My daughter and I went to visit the cockpit of the ship, the captain, who speaks only the dialect of Luxor, received us kindly. We managed to know some news from the staff that drives the ship at the time. Here I realize that is not so easy to lead this boat on the Nile. The helmsman navigate to view and pays great attention because they are often dry and sand banks where the vessel ran aground easily.
The difference between the Upper and Lower Egypt is only 82 meters. Along the river I noticed a few inches difference in height of just noticeable as the water rippled slightly. The Nile is about three meters deep on average and has numerous islands. The fishing boats of the Nile and about 1.80 meters, being the shallow river, you need considerable expertise and experience sailing for sailing on the Nile, in fact, the captain and crew know the river palm inch.
Sailors of the Nile wearing a black uniform, as opposed to white, masters of vessels not wear the uniform European style, but the cotton natural-colored traditional dress: the galabya. The classic wooden boat rudder exists, but is used only in emergencies. The boat is in fact a kind of joystick controlled with light and very sensitive, similar to that of video games.
managed to find some technical data on the ship Lady Sophia, which dates back strongly in the current direction of the heart of Africa. The ship was launched one year and two months earlier. Here are its specifications: length 72 m. width 14.50 m. height m. 11.50, tonnage 2,000 tons., Draft 1.80 m, 72 cabins and two suites, three Mercedes motors of 400 HP each, two generators. The crew consists of 80 people. The cost of continued operation of this great ship is over € 500,000 every two months.
The boats that sail on the Nile make the most of the size, if they were not the highest pass under the bridges, they were much larger locks would not pass in Edfu.
Marinas for the public service are quite distant to those who need personal and travel on a budget that remains is the classic economic and felucca.
The boatmen to come and go sailing. Small motor boats are less common, thankfully, otherwise it would cause serious pollution. The harder it is for the future development of reconciling human activities with respect to flora, fauna and riverine habitats of these wonderful places. I hope that these lands remain as they are charming and beautiful forever.
seems to me that most of the population works for the tourism or related activities. The farmer, with the shaduf watering the vegetable garden near the house (mud brick as 4 or 5000 years ago) sells his vegetables to the markets. From there they are taken to supply the galleys of the many tourist ships that cross the River. In fact we have seen a stop to load on board boxes of tomatoes, zucchini, etc.. to supply the galley. On board we have tasted the fish of the Nile which is good, unfortunately not very widely used. The food on board is frugal, but good quality. The fruit, however, may only seen with binoculars from the deck in the sun!
While we waited with my dinner sitting in the reception, get a boy about 23 years, accompanied by a small boy, sitting so haughty. Now, to do with peremptory orders to the young, like a Schiavetto of andargli to take a drink at the bar. I am amazed by how haughty and proud from the great diva note the details so I ask: "Who is that woman?" An opera singer? " I answered: "No, it's a dancer, is belly dancing." I do not question the athleticism of the dancer, but a little 'modesty perhaps would be beneficial.
Aswan, charming place
As we go back to Nubia, the river narrows quite fertile and the band is very small. Just before arriving in Aswan you can see a large bridge spans under construction. I think "the next time I return from these parts will be finished."
Aswan which means market is a city of 220,000 inhabitants, the point of arrival and departure piers are full of tourist boats, and small boats to remain an island moorings and other minors.
visit a particular site The unfinished obelisk : an old stone quarry where an unfinished obelisk is almost complete, since the monolith was found to dangerous cracks. It seems to be on a site 3,000 years ago!
Aswan is a city with beautiful buildings, gardens, a Coptic church, the newly opened luxury hotels among them the Old Cataract in colonial style, where other scenes were filmed for the film "Death on the Nile" . In the Old Cataract there was also the residence of King Farouk. The city has grown during the construction of two dams, the first designed and completed in early 1900 by the English engineer William Wellicocks other highly desired by Nasser.
the morning we take a boat ride on the Nile. The guide explains that the felucca is no longer used in these excursions, as a result of calm you sometimes need to use the oars. We, the two boats, is newly whitewashed and the roof adorned with traditional hieroglyphics. Each time the boats are coming and our guide will explain things to see.
The Nile in Aswan is simply amazing. Released from the Nubian Desert and freed 
last cataract becomes majestic, immersed in the Black Land (Kemet) and shows off all of its colorful beauty.
There are numerous small islands made of giant boulders, banks and fragrant flowers, colorful birds fly over the tranquil waters and give the conference on the trees that are reflected on the eternal river vain. Although the geographical location is incorrect, the Nile in Aswan is so beautiful, charming and enchanting that the name that is most suitable lagoon, because in my opinion makes the idea of \u200b\u200bthe amazing beauty of the area. Aswan is the place I believe that marriage between history and geography come together in a happy marriage. 
It 's a pleasant and charming location midway between the oasis in the desert and the lagoon is one last step before the deep south where wild nature taking its revenge. These places tell me: 'O wayfarer that you have come up so far enjoy the green of the oleanders, acacias the flight of ibis that skim the waters of the Nile; from here goes into the deep and wild south. "
I add to my dreams, the guide said that about 70% of those who visit Egypt later returns. Luxor and Aswan and like any other visits Egypt deserve.
From the boat I also admire the beautiful villa with a veranda, with the air of a comfortable colonial house, former home of engineer Wellicocks where the museum is now located in Aswan.
That explosion of flowers, exotic plants and bird songs in the Kitchener Island Botanical Gardens, which Unfortunately, I could not visit. Beautiful white ibis flying over the waters in the lagoon where there are twelve granite islands. Some of them are huge blocks protruding from the waters like the back of an elephant taking a bath, which is why an island was named by the ancient Elephantine .
Aswan, the climate is very mild even in winter, is also a winter resort.
These are great places to spend a week of relaxation or perhaps to the Amoun Hotel Isis Club Méditerranée, structures Exclusive to stay where you can enjoy peace of mind, but the prices are around $ 1,500 per night. The guide says that you can spend a holiday in the most absolute idleness . We come from all over the world richest people, the privacy and anonymity are guaranteed.
From the Nile turning his gaze to the west you see a rocky hill with caves carved ocher. Stands the mausoleum of the Aga Khan and the underlying yellow color of the villa Begum. On the island of Elephantine, there is the Oberoi Hotels in India with an unfinished tower by questionable taste.
We visit the perfumery "Abu Simbel Perfumes Palace" of Aswan, where you create the base for perfume essences exported all over the world. Outside, waiting for the band reunited, I bartered a simple Bic pen to papyrus in a bookmark by a boy who seemed happy to hold a pen.
From the small dam, built in 1902, looking down the Nile from the barrage can be seen the first of six cataracts. The water level going down between rocks and boulders, making the course forbidden to navigation. Cataracts, known since ancient times, there are six: the latter was submerged by Lake Nasser, the sixth is located not far from Khartoum in Sudan where the Blue Nile receives the waters of the White Nile. They were named in ancient Egypt as it blocked the passage to those who climbed or descended the river, you had to change boat or transporting the boat by land holders.
While we go to the airport of Aswan, near the High Dam (Grand dam) and the gentle green landscape gives way to the two deserts: the Libyan desert and the stony desert east of fine sand color ocher. The vegetation is very low and the plants away from the shore of the reservoir will not survive unless artificially watered.
The sacred island of File
Very beautiful are the temple of Isis (the wife of Osiris), the pavilion of Trajan and the whole re-assembled on the nearby island of artificial Agilkia to save them from the reservoir. Reconstruction in a higher position than the waters of Lake Nasser, which was completed in collaboration with some international organizations, was an operation of exceptional historical and cultural interest worthy of the Egyptian industry. We hope that posterity might admire these beauties again for millennia.
Surfing I already love it, but here on the Nile at the time I seem to relive the splendor of this magnificent civilization. The boats are to reach the worst instead of sailing boats and a miracle. After the boat trip around the island of Philae, the middle section of the lake, Joseph ordered the boatman to turn off the engine noisy and smoky, "before returning to the chaotic cities in Europe listen to the silence." In fact it was a unique experience to enjoy the only the sound of the lapping of the lake on the side of the boat and the chirping of birds that nest on the island flowering shrubs. In the novel "The Egyptian" it is said that whoever drinks the water of the river Nile can not help it. Unable to legally drink Isabella and I were content to wet the hands. The crocodiles had obviously nothing to do!
minutes were unforgettable: the millennial temple, the waves crashing on the boats, the rocky islets that surfaced seemed silent witnesses to the work of God and man. The charm of these incredible places that define us magical charm and strikes. The magic of Egypt is this intangible, elusive, but it surrounds us, enchants us, you witch!
Abu Simbel
From Aswan we board a plane to Abu Simbel and flight exceeds the Tropic of Cancer. I did not take any photos as a result of microscopic sand particles suspended in the air you could not see anything. The stop lasts only three hours, these are the rules at airports. Being a few miles from the border with Sudan puts me a light, fleeting apprehension.
At Abu Simbel, the vegetation is all irrigated by the waters of Lake Nasser. The daytime temperature is around 50 degrees, then dry very well tolerated by all. Both guides we strongly recommend not to drink in the sun.
The dam was completed in 1971 is colossal work, has created one of the largest artificial lakes in the world with 158 billion cubic meters of water, is 480 km long. wide and 16 km ..
The complex of Abu Simbel were rescued from waters of the lake with a daring work of disassembly and reassembly.
The keeper of the great temple of Abu Simbel, now as then, holds the key to the big front door exact reproduction of Anji " the key to life."
Two days a year on October 21 and 21 February, the sun's rays penetrate through a window on the roof of the complex and 10 minutes to illuminate the interior of the sanctuary. built in 1250 BC. These dates represent the beginning of the sowing and harvesting, important dates in the Egyptian calendar. Joseph argues that, Contrary to how it is often said, these dates do not remember the dates of birth of the pharaohs.
Near the main temple, while I was sitting in the shade of a nearly transparent 
tree through two tourists talking like this: "... they were repetitive writing the same things, then you do not see how these places are reduced due to the mass tourism that started only a few decades ago. One hundred years if they have not closed will be nothing. " What can I say? I just do not share this pessimism does not seem right that only very few people they can enjoy these wonderful relics of the past. When there are more visitors in these beautiful places, the land will no longer be a place where I choose to live!
I would also like to sail on Lake Nasser from Aswan to Abu Simbel, a cruise lasts four days, maybe watch the show nightly Son et lumière to Abu Simbel from the ship at anchor in front of temples. On the lake there are large motor vessels may be less than luxurious river, the lake that you can not admire some particularly lush banks of the Nile as those further north. On the other hand is possible to photograph the Nile crocodiles that thrive on the lake, downstream of the dams and up the delta are missing.
After this trip, I can say that the places that correspond to what I did from reading the books on the ancient Egypt belong to the south Egypt: Luxor, Aswan and Abu Simbel. My wife and daughter have been literally taken from the wild charm of Abu Simbel.
Cairo
From Cairo to Abu Simbel fly at an altitude of 31,000 feet with the Airbus 320 plane Shorouk Air.
Our tour "Aton" provides for the accommodation of the Conrad Cairo hotel for 3 nights. American-owned hotel brochures on Egypt is called "The Mother of the World . The 19-storey skyscraper is located not far from the Ministry of Finance Joseph calls "the most feared " and almost adjacent to the World Trade Center Cairo. We do not know that after four months, will become infamous around the world to New York.
It 's a luxury hotel with extensive use of modern technology, six lifts, room doors and reinforced key card, safe opened with a credit card, which allows TV to surf the Internet and listen to the radio.
For the first night spent in this capital of the dinner is free. Our guide had pointed out a good local restaurant, we mistakenly decided to go to the restaurant of the Conrad "Villa d'Este, which is expensive, but not to its name.
Cairo is a chaotic and noisy metropolis, opening the window that soundproofing terrace overlooking the sound is heard two or three times higher than that of a city like Rome. 
E 'has become much more popular than what is reported in the books of geography or you have learned in school. It is certainly a city on a human, but I think we can live well.
In a street of old Cairo we met a cart filled with watermelons pulled by a donkey, the sight of these fruits had made me mouth-watering. On board the fruit frighteningly scarce, we go back for breakfast at the "Sea Market" Hotel Conrad, does not seem true, watermelons, melons, pineapples, bananas, walnuts, almonds, etc..!
Friday evening we have dinner at the floating restaurant "The Place", a boat moored on the Nile near the bridge Kubriet Tahir.
As we turn the bus into the city guide shows us the lane on which background you see two minarets, there gave rise to the metropolis now larger proportion. Cairo means "the ruler " There are 14 other cities in the world with the same name.
Finally we visit the Egyptian Museum, I dreamed of him for years. The building is neoclassical in the square there is a pool with papyrus plants emblem of Lower Egypt and the lotus of Upper Egypt.
Everything here is worthy of attention, observation and admiration, a large number of visitors fascinated by the treasures found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.
without getting lost in descriptions of my responsibilities I will simply say what the objects are stored which impressed me for their sheer beauty and I would live: the Triad Menkaure, Hathor, Het, the limestone statue of the seated scribe, the pair Rahotep and Nofret, geese Mejdum, the golden mask of Tutankhamen, the magnificent alabaster heads canopies, etc. ..
The first visit to this museum is important to do so accompanied by an experienced guide. Leaving purchase several books including the best essay on Egypt illustrated in color I have ever seen. I do not regret having spent several Egyptian pounds to buy the books. Erasmus of Rotterdam said, "If I have a bit 'of money purchasing books, and if I am still a bit' buy food and clothes ...."
visit the mosque alabaster Mohammed Ali, "the father of modern Egypt" the most beautiful in Egypt. Designed by a Christian engineer, was built in 1834 and is identical to the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Inside there are 365 large chandeliers of Murano glass. Each mosque consists of: open-air courtyard, a fountain for ablutions, the minaret to call the four cardinal points, inside there is a niche in the direction of Mecca and a pulpit.
Near the citadel and the mosque is a limestone quarry 12 km away from the pyramids and used for their construction.
At about 16:20 we finished the visit and we go to Khan El Khalili souk of Cairo, very big, but more orderly than that of Marrakech.
am 8.30 am the next day and we are on the esplanade in front of the Giza pyramids to the fascinating and mysterious, I would say the air is crisp fresh air. To date 104 have been discovered in Egypt pyramids.
Near Pyramids of Giza and Saqqara, as close to the Egyptian Museum, considered obligatory stops for tourists, there are policemen in uniform representation, patrols and camel.
merciless in millennia, the number of successive conquerors, Hyksos, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, French, English, failed to erase the heritage of this magnificent civilization. The Sphinx has been under restoration for over 10 years, the work was completed May 16, 1998. 
The operation has cost $ 2.5 million, were used 12,244 blocks of white marble, limestone. In particular, have been restored to her chest, paws and claws of the lion body facing east.
Before the construction of the Aswan High Dam, the Nile during the flood season, reaching up to 40 meters of the pyramid of Cheops. The huge stone blocks needed were largely carried by water.
Whenever, in the vicinity of any monument or archaeological site, meet a group of French tourists there to laugh! Bruno tells a few jokes or satire on them. Eventually, however, Joseph Bruno and chatting amiably with their guide which is almost always a beautiful Egyptian girl snob. These are among the most beautiful Egyptian women, because it combines the exotic beauty of French flair.
You go to visit a co-production of papyrus, the "Blue Nile Papyrus", before leaving the bus Joseph rightly gives us a valuable tip: "If you do not feel the papyrus, wasting money on useless' purchase.
An employee shows virtually the various stages of processing plant until you get to roll over. But not everyone is interested in ancient civilizations and their cultural heritage, a woman in the shop of another group observing the beautiful papyrus hung against the wall and talking to another saying, "out of tune with the decor of the room, maybe would be good for the beach house."
It makes dinner at a nice restaurant in Giza, the window you can see the size of a giant pyramid. At one point there is a power failure. The operator to increase the mystery, says: "And 'the curse of the pharaohs." A more plausible explanation is that the lighting of the lights illuminating the great pyramids undermines the power grid in the area.
After dinner participate the show "Son et lumière " on the pyramids, being the month of April I have to say it's pretty cool. But the show was really exciting.
ancient city of Memphis 
unfortunately almost nothing is left, it seems due to the friability of the building material used. Memphis is now a place with palm trees, but in truth a bit 'dusty. visit the small archaeological park where a large statue of Ramses II has been put under cover and kept in a horizontal bears the cartouche of the great pharaoh on the belt and shoulder. Outdoor among other statues there is a small alabaster sphinx depicting Queen Hatshepsut (carved when he was no longer alive, because his beard is curved).
Let's go to lunch " Sakkara Palm Club, a restaurant inside a grove of trees with red bougainvillea, hibiscus, here you can taste the local production of bananas and enjoy a pleasant drink, red sorrel, made with tea leaves of Hibiscus.
At Saqqara we admired the stepped pyramid and burial of the fence Zoser (Third Dynasty) built by famed architect Imhotep. I could not fully appreciate this complex because my knowledge of the Old Kingdom are very modest. The ancient inscriptions are not as picturesque as those of more recent periods.
have dinner in Cairo city, the Nile, the splendid vessel "Al Saraya", no longer traveling, but still street in Zamalek, with four restaurants and meeting and conference center. It 's a pity that these splendid ships can no longer navigate because they can not more to pass under the many bridges of the new Cairo.
We are in the company of Piedmont Alfonso Brandimarte a retired professor with a passion for travel. He tells some stories of his travels around the world. The professor, at the end of the tour, went on alone travel to Alexandria and surrounding areas.
Cairo Sunday morning looks cloudy, perhaps for us to acclimatise to Europe already. The eight wonderful days are strascorsi quickly, the dream trip is already over: it lasted too short!
the restaurant Internal Felucca ", where your breakfast, it is so cold and there's no way to escape from the racks at the top where cold air comes out, now we have to wear a shirt.
Cairo airport waiting for us a Boeing 737-700 of Air Blue to bring us back in Italy. Due to a disturbance in the lower Mediterranean, we have not seen much of northern Egypt and southern Italy.
to view and review
We would have done willingly stretch that is missing cruise the Nile Delta, Cairo, Memphis, Luxor. We hope to return to Egypt and to review more calmly Luxor, Aswan Cairo. And visit the beautiful Alexandria, the oasis of Fayum, the Red Sea coast, the ruins of the ancient Berenice, and when the time is also quieter Sinai. I regret not having bought, perhaps due to excessive weight, a large-format book on the explorations in search of the source of the Nile River called "The Discovery of the Nile" by Gianni Guadalupi Editions White Star.
Conclusion
For lovers of ancient history civilizations and archeology, Egypt is the ultimate satisfaction for me was even more because I really love Africa, rightly called "the cradle of humanity .
A journey by car is not for everyone. I noticed that gas stations are not close, nor well organized, also the bridges over the Nile are somewhat distant (at least in the stretch Luxor - Aswan). The drivers take a special driving, I conclude that it is not advisable to travel the country by car unless it is specially adapted and experts. In addition, several signals are only in Arabic.
This travel book is somewhat fragmented, as during the visits, I have not had time to write explanations of the guide, the days were busy urgently. There was no time to think, reflect and reason or reorganize ideas on what they see. Fatigue, however, was unable to submit our strong will and stamina.
My notes are not meant to make the right on this country and its ancient civilization. I hope the pictures and these lines can convey my experience to others who are interested. The only pictures and words are not enough to communicate what they have implemented the vision, hearing and other senses during this unforgettable journey. It 'an experience to do and live, which is absolutely possible to transfer all the feelings!
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